The village of Eyam (pronounced Eem) which sits snugly in relative isolation deep in the heart of the Peak District surrounded by a rugged landscape of limestone hills and dales and sheltered from the north by the dominating prominence of Eyam Edge, is perhaps the most well documented and most visited of all Derbyshire's villages.
It's inhabitants, now numbering in excess of 1000, are justifiably hugely proud of their village's infamy and it's place in the history of Eyam at it is known famously as the 'Plague Village' - with thousands of visitors flocking here every year from all over the world, all fascinated by the valiant story of self-sacrifice which the village has to tell.
Eyam's story begins in September 1665 when a contaminated parcel of cloth was delivered from London was delivered to the lodgings of travelling tailor George Viccars. Within three days Viccars was dead and the Bubonic Plague, which was decimating London's vast population, began to spread through Eyam.
Over half the population fled from Eyam, including Squire Bradshaw and his family, but around 350 remained in Eyam trusting to God and providence. In an attempt to stop the spread of the disease to other villages, the rector William Mompesson aided by his Duckmanton-born Puritan colleague Thomas Stanley, called upon the remaining villagers of Eyam to impose a self-regulated quarantine and the people agreed to what for many of them would become a death sentence.
Mompesson closed the church and services were held in the open air at a place called Cucklet Delf, and he sent his two young children away but his wife Katherine refused to leave, insisting that her place was by her husbands side. A stone boundary was set around the village and it was arranged by courtesy of the Earl of Devonshire that food and other necessities be left at various collecting points - such as the place that became known as "˜Mompesson's Well' - and coin in payment was left either in vinegar or in running water.
During the next fourteen months the plague claimed the lives of 259 villagers in Eyam including rector's wife Katherine Mompesson, who became it's 208th victim, dying in her husbands arms on August 25th, just a couple of months before the cold autumn of 1666 eventually extinguished the disease. There was no time for funerals and victims were buried either in the churchyard, in their gardens, or in nearby fields - as in the"˜Riley Graves' where a Mrs.Hancock buried her husband and six children in the space of just eight days.
The legacy left by the plague in Eyam is still evidenced throughout this close-knit community where many of the descendents of the plague survivors still reside. Commemorative plaques to the victims are displayed on the walls of the cottages where they lived - and died - over three hundred and thirty years ago, and their heroic tale is related to visitors in vivid pictorial displays at both the Parish Church of St. Lawrence and at the Eyam Museum on Hawkhill Road at the western end of the village.
The most popular time of the year to visit Eyam is in the last week of August during Carnival Week when the annual Sheep-Roast takes place and the village is thronged by thousands of visitors. Several wells are expertly dressed and the entire village is festooned with colourful bunting, with events rounded off by the annual Plague Commemmoration service, held on the last Sunday of August in Cucklet Delf.
The splendid Miners Arms on Water Lane, just off the Square at the east end of the village, is the epitome of the country village pub and Eyam's only remaining hostelry - four others having closed and converted to private dwellings in recent years.
Modern Eyam is well equipped for residents and visitors alike with a large car park opposite the museum, complete with toilet and washroom facilities, and a variety of retail establishments including a post office, antique and curio shops, gift shops, cafes and local art and craft galleries.
It is the archetypal Peakland village and typifies all that is best about Derbyshire hill villages, with footpaths and walks in almost every direction from Eyam, either through the village, redolent with age and the unique character of its well preserved and heroic past - or into the equally unique and absorbing surrounding countryside which shelters beneath the benevolent wooded slopes of Eyam Edge.
Interesting facts about the village
Geology
– Eyam is situated on the borderline of gritstone and limestone, the
latter being rich in galena (lead ore) and fluorspar, whilst small
quantities of oil can be found in the bituminous shale below Eyam Edge.
A
type of galena found at Hay Cliff Mine near Eyam called ‘Slickensides’
was said to have very dangerous properties – a scratch with a pick or
blow from a hammer being sufficient to explode the rocks to which it was
attached.
The hillside beneath Eyam is said to be honeycombed with natural caves and caverns as well as mine workings.
Plague Graves:
The
Taylor Graves are below Eyam Edge Road but situated on private land.
There are two horizontal stone slabs marking the graves of Margaret and
Alies Taylor who both died in 1666.
The
Riley Graves are at Top Riley which is located about half a mile to the
east of Eyam up a drive from New Road which heads to Grindleford. Here
lie the bodies of all but two of the Hancock family. Mrs Hancock buried
seven of her family in one week and when the plague was over, left the
village with her only surviving child to live in Sheffield. The graves
of the Talbot family are close by, buried in an orchard at Riley House
Farm.
In the Lydgate Graves just off Mill Lane is an enclosure containing the graves of George Derby and his daughter Mary.
Bull Ring –
Outside the bakers shop at the Town End is a stone slab with bullring
attached where bulls would have been tethered before being baited by
dogs in the belief that it tenderized the meat! This was normal practise
over a century ago but, thankfully, has now been abolished.